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In Bloom

Getting ready for the gardening push in 2010
by Patrick Hirtle

 When the frost has heaved its way clear of the ground, the sun hangs higher and longer in the sky, the birds have begun to chirp and the wind has turned warmer, it is time to begin thinking about your garden.

 There are all kinds of big questions to answer — whether you're starting anew or refreshing that which greened your yard last summer season, deciding what, how and where to plant is a big decision each spring.

 And, like any big decision, there are plenty of factors that will go into your thinking.

 If you've decided that this year your focus is going to be on a small vegetable garden, then there are plenty of great and helpful hints that can play into things and help ensure that you get the absolute most out of your backyard crop.

 In order to get the best yield possible later in the season, choosing the right siting location for your garden plot plays a pivotal role.

 Of course, the types of veggies that you want to grow will play a great role in your site selection.

 If you're interested, for instance, in growing things such as cucumbers — veggies which require a high amount of direct sunlight to encourage growth — then you will want to look for something that has a lot of daytime sun exposure.

 Some vegetables, however, such as broccoli, Swiss chard or peas, don't require sunlight quite so intense. Therefore, you may look at a plot of land that only gets direct sun exposure during a smaller segment of the day.

 A well-shaded garden, after all, can create an environment that is much more hospitable for gardeners young and old alike to work in during the blazing-hot summer months.

 When it comes to preparing your soil, there are a couple of things that you can do without breaking the bank in order to give your plantings a head start on life.

 Instead of layering topsoil on, a good alternative to breathe new life into your soil is to get out the tiller, fork or shovel and dig down into the turf a couple of inches and see what comes up.

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 When soil becomes packed down and worn, it is far less healthy for your plants and can cause numerous problems — including drainage issues.

 If you're able to till down up to, say, seven or eight inches in the soil, turning over the soil can break up large clumpings, helping to aerate.

 The loose soil also contains plenty of air pockets, ensuring that water has room in which to run its course, draining properly away from the rooted feet of your plants.

 One thing that directly impacts upon the ability of plants to grow is the acidity of soil.

 Ideally, you want a soil pH of somewhere between 5.0 and 7.0 to encourage the growth of your produce — but that is largely dependent upon what you intend to grow.

 Some plants, for instance, will not tolerate a pH higher than about 5.0, including blueberry and cranberry.

 At the same time, other plants, such as asparagus, beets, celery, lettuce and melons, desire a soil pH that is only slightly acidic —somewhere in the vicinity of 6.0 to 6.5.

 If you want to know what the pH of your soil is, you can go to your local retailer's gardening section and buy a simple soil-testing kit — usually for under $10.

 If you find the acidity of your soil to be running a bit high, the application of lime on your plot can do a lot to quickly neutralize the acidity and create a more effective growing space.

 For a more thorough test, that includes a comprehensive analysis of your soil composition, you can consult a local soil-testing firm.

 Know your soil

 According to Garden Zone, the following are examples of vegetables and fruits and their preferred pH range:

 • 5.5 - 6.4 — lima beans, rhubarb

 • 5.8 - 7 — apples, leaf beets

 • 6.0 - 7 and above — radishes, carrots, runner beans, eggplant, parsley

 For more information and a more thorough index, visit http://www.gardenzone.info/index.



posted on 05/11/10
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