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Matters of myth and mystique

What of Mahone Bay's 365 islands?

The fog comes on little cat feet. It sits looking over the harbour … on silent haunches and then moves on."

 Those words, published by Carl Sandburg in 1916, fittingly describe the ritual that happens on the waters of Mahone Bay harbour most every morning.

 For a time each day, no matter how brief, the fog comes, casting itself silently over the harbour, shrouding the bay in mystery. But the fog, as it always does, eventually takes its leave and in its wake the islands of Mahone Bay are left awash in the sunshine of a new day.

 But, even though the fog usually visits for just a short time, the mystique and beauty surrounding Mahone Bay's natural geophysical outcroppings has far from dissipated.

 The first French explorers along the coast of l'Acadie called Mahone Bay "Baie Tout-Isles," or "Bay of All Islands." As the years wore on and the area was permanently settled by Europeans, the local population, perhaps expanding upon that old French name, began speculating that Mahone Bay was so rich with caps, ledges and islands that there must be one for every day of the year. By the 20th century, the idea of Mahone Bay having 365 islands had gone from being myth or idea to an accepted reality.

 But just how many islands are there really in Mahone Bay? Certainly, standing on Edgewater Street in front of the town's famous three churches doesn't give one a proper perspective on things.

 As a body of water, Mahone Bay stretches from the tip of the Aspotogan Peninsula, past the Tancook Islands and East Ironbound Island, all the way to the outer reaches of Stonehurst and Blue Rocks, outside of Lunenburg.

 All told, a careful count of islands marked on provincial maps indicates that there are, in the very least, 77 islands, ledges and caps that have been officially recognized and given a name.

 While that might not be an island for every day of the year, it's an impressive figure. Furthermore, each of these islands has something unique about it, a special tale, or even a name, that connects it not only with the history of the community of Mahone Bay, but also with Lunenburg County as a whole.

 Many of Mahone Bay's islands have the names of the area's founding families. From the Rafuse islands, both the main island and Little Rafuse, that lie between Big Tancook and Ernst Gut, to Kaulback, Rous, Bachman, Zwicker, Ernst, Meisner and Naas islands, the list of names reads like a roster of many of the prominent families in the county's storied heritage.

 In some cases, islands reflect the changes that have taken place in proper names over the years. One such example is Swinehemers Island - that family name has taken on a number of different spellings, from Swinamer to Swinemar, since coming to this region of the globe hundreds of years ago.

 The Mahone Bay area's close connection with agriculture is also reflected in the names of many of the bay's islands.

 Snake Island, for one, lies between Chester and the Aspotogan Peninsula. Big Duck and Little Duck Island anchor the southern end of Mahone Bay, while Sheep Island and Goat Island are further inward, toward the mouth of Mahone harbour, between Rous and Andrews Island.

 And, if you're in the mood for fowl or fish, you could always choose from Crow, Squid Frog or Big Fish Island, all of which lie within a short distance of the mainland.

 In addition to fully fledged islands, there are also a series of rocky outcroppings from the ocean. Chockle Cap and its smaller associates at the fringe of the bay help to dull heavy tidal surges, making Mahone Bay a hospitable place to enjoy a leisurely summer cruise.

 Other nearby croppings have equally interesting names, such as Gimlet Ledge, Gull Ledge and Shag Ledge.

 An important part of local lore also includes tragedy, and the islands of Mahone Bay are certainly not free of unfortunate happenstance since the arrival of the first European colonists more than 250 years ago.

 Coveys Island, off Princes Inlet, has a particularly macabre tale in its past. In the mid-18th century, Louis Payzant and his family settled near Rous Island, on a rock which would, in time, become known as Coveys Island. Louis was a Huguenot from the island of Jersey in the English Channel, where he had for years helped maintain a successful family shipbuilding business.

 Ever the entrepreneur, when the opportunity arose, Payzant made for the New World with his family and, with the dispensation of local authorities, settled in the vicinity of Mahone Bay.

 One night, not long into their new life on this foreign shore, the Payzants were alarmed just before retiring for the evening by some odd noises coming from the shoreline on their little island.

 Having been granted permission to respond with all necessary force to anyone who might cause the family trouble, Louis grabbed his gun and headed for the door. Outside, he noticed a party of natives had landed on the shoreline below.

 In those early days of colonization, there was still much distrust between the European and native communities, and the encroachment of a number of natives under the cover of darkness was perceived as a threat by Payzant. To make matters worse, the natives appeared to have a young man bound and gagged in tow, who had led them to the Payzant settlement under threat.

 Louis discharged his gun, prompting a quick response from the natives, who discharged their weapons in his direction and struck Louis. Upon hearing the commotion outside, Marie Payzant left her children to check on her husband, only to find him lying on the ground, mortally wounded.

 With the natives advancing on the house, Marie retreated inside, barring the door, while the natives looted the nearby storehouse and seemed to be preparing to light the Payzant house afire.

 The natives then rushed the house from two sides, killing a nursemaid by entering through the rear and capturing the Payzant children and their mother.

 The family was forced into canoes used by the native party and, with one last glance behind her, Marie saw roaring flames shooting up into the night, ripping through the humble house that once was her island home.

 The surviving Payzants travelled with the natives for several months through the wilderness of eastern Canada, eventually making their way to Quebec, where Marie gave birth to Louis' final child, Lizette.

 Meanwhile, the smouldering remnants on the island made clear that a calamity had transpired and, upon investigation, locals discovered the body of Louis Payzant, as well as the corpses of two men on neighbouring Rous Island, also believed to have been killed by the natives.

 Louis was taken, then, to Heckmans Island, where he was interred beneath a grove of trees, never knowing how the enduring spirit and will of his wife and children kept them going through months as prisoners in the wilderness.

 Beyond the tale of Coveys Island, there are certainly several other interesting histories to be found. Oak Island's mysterious Money Pit has been explored by treasure hunters, scientists and authors alike, but other islands in the bay have been associated with treasures too.

 An old tale out of Lunenburg suggests that there once was an old man who, every few months, would make his way from the Chester area, where he resided, to Mahone Bay, at which time he would exchange gold coins for money and provisions.

 Each time the gold would be packaged off to Halifax to be assayed and, its value having been determined, it would be returned to the man who would then exchange it for supplies before returning to his home on Graves Island.

 Even more enticing, once the old man had passed away, his daughter and son-in-law, who had been reputed to be in a difficult financial situation, suddenly were able to make good on their debts. Not only that, but they were even able to build a mill and shop on their property.

 Another tale, this one originating in Blue Rocks, tells the story of a strange happening at Hobsons Nose.

 An American vessel having been seen cruising in the area, locals descended upon the island to investigate the matter. Once there, they found a hole sunk in the ground, where it was clear an object had been removed. Speculation ran rampant that it had been a puncheon, or large barrel, and upon closer inspection, some of the men found old English coins.

 While tales of material wealth are captivating, the islands of Mahone Bay most frequently reflect the gilded brilliance of days gone by.

 And even if the final count tallies 77 islands, ledges and caps in Mahone Bay that sport proper names, a far cry from the 365 purported by popular myth, not lost on the visitor or the lifelong resident should be the historic metaphor of Mahone's "Bay of All Islands."

 These priceless specks upon the deep blue waters of the North Atlantic are treasures, each and every one, with enough natural splendour and historic wonder to keep us all occupied and enthralled each and every day of the year. They are iconic gifts, both of literal beauty and of our collective heritage, which we must protect, preserve, share and enjoy.

 Sources: Carl Sandburg, "Chicago Poems"; Helen Creighton, "Bluenose Ghosts"; Mather DesBrisay, "A History of the County of Lunenburg."

Written and researched by Patrick Hirtle.

 1750 - 1759
1750
Lunenburg Co.
The Foreign Protestants
1754
Mahone Bay
Matters of myth and mystique
1759
Queen Co.
Creating the Township of Liverpool
 1760 - 1782
1760
Dayspring
The cursed tale of Hufeisen Bucht
1762
Queens Co.
The Perkins legacy
1775
Queens Co.
A revolting development
1782
Chester
If not for a rouge ruse
 1782 - 1795
1782
Queens Co.
The privateers have ears
1789
Mahone Bay
An iconic link to Mahone Bay’s history
1795
Chester
Oak Island mystery locked up tight for 200-plus years
 1800 - 1816
1800c.
Lunenburg
The Era of Wind and Sail
1807
Queens Co.
Running the embargo
1813
Chester
In shallow waters
1813
Queens Co.
Eye of the storm
1816
Chester
Frontier adventures in the interior
 1830 - 1878
1830
Milton, Queens
Now that’s the spirit!
1849
Queens Co.
What a single spark wrought
1856
Chester
Remembering the Grand Regatta
1860
Mahone Bay
Forever a safe harbour for sails
1869
Mahone Bay
The churches of Mahone Bay
1876
Green Island
The forgotten protectors, alone against the world
1878
Lunenburg
Rum Running — A Colourful Chapter of Lunenburg’s History
 1892 - 1899
1892
Mahone Bay
A night on the town
1898
BW/LN
Forever rivals
1898
Bridgewater
Old-fashioned window shopping
1899
Bridgewater
Ablaze
 1900 - 1907
1900
Bridgewater
Riding the river’s rails
1902
Mahone Bay
Through the eyes of the young
1903
Lunenburg
The amazing artistic talent of Earl Bailly
1907
LaHave
Aground off West Ironbound
1907
Mahone Bay
Destination: disaster
 1913 - 1940
1913
Mahone Bay
Mahone Bay’s scholarly history a long, storied tale
1921
Lunenburg
Fisherman’s Trophy Returns to Nova Scotia
1940
LaHave
Tales of legend, myth or more?
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